Climb the North Face Route to Batian on Mt Kenya. This is the ultimate alpine climb in Africa. We offer private guided ascents of Batian Peak, the true summit of the spectacular Mount Kenya. After the trek in and acclimatization, the technical climb is completed in one long day as a series of up to 21 pitches. There is a comprehensive kit list for a climb on Mount Kenya and previous experience of outdoor multi-pitch rock climbing is a must for this trip. We provide a technically qualified and experienced guide but the route is committing and long and participants would need to be familiar with leading long runouts, long abseils/rappels and putting in safe protection.
6 – 7 DAYS:BATIAN NORTH FACE TECHNICAL CLIMBING (JUNE TO OCTOBER)
6 – 7 DAYS:BATIAN NORTH FACE TECHNICAL CLIMBING (JUNE TO OCTOBER)
DAY 1: NAIROBI – NANYUKI TOWN – SIRIMON GATE – OLD MOSES CAMP
Leave Nairobi at 6.45am for a 3.5 hour trip to Nanyuki where you will link up with the porters and make final preparations and continue with the journey to the mountain park gate. With porter support, trek for 3hrs to Old Moses Camp at 3,300m. Diner and overnight at the Old Moses Camp or you may opt to sleep in bandas.
DAY 2:OLD MOSES TO SHIPTON’S CAMP (4,200m)
After breakfast proceed across Ontulilli River straight to Liki North River, to the top ridge and down to Mackinder Valley and Shipton’s Camp at 4,200m. This is a 17kms walk which takes 6 – 7hours, with picnic lunch served on the way. You have the option of staying in the hut, or sleep in your own tents. The tents offer a bit of privacy and quiet from the often busy hut. Either way, our cook will use the hut’s facilities and we will take our meals at tables and benches inside the hut. This night you will be joined by the technical guide/s who will do a briefing and a kit/technical gear check.
DAY 3:SHIPTONS CAMP 4,200m
Early morning after breakfast you have an acclimatization walk to Pt. Lenana (4895m). Rest after lunch and at 3pm, climb a short route on either Pt. Peter (this is also technical) or Pt. Dutton. You can also opt to rest and spare the energy. In either case, you also prepare for the climb of Batian the following morning.
DAY 4:SUMMIT ATTEMPT – ASCENT OF BATIAN (5,199m) BY THE NORTH FACE STANDARD ROUTE
Starting before dawn, usually between 4 and 5 am, take a 40 minute walk to the climbing base. To ascent Batian by the North Face Standard Route, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. The route initially follows a wide contour which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings you to the amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock partly way up the route. Ideally you arrive here by about 7.30am and enjoying a late breakfast and a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and finally, the west ridge.
From this point, you continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian. Descent is by the same route, with a few minor variations. If you are quick, you can arrive back in Shipton’s Camp before evening dusk. If slow, you might not be able to go up and down the same day. Hence, you may overnight at the Top Hut about 5,188m (Nelion).
DAY 5:OPTIONAL EXTRA DAY AT THE SUMMIT
Please plan for an Extra day in case you spend the night at the Top Hut.
DAY 6:SHIPTONS CAMP TO CHOGORIA BANDAS
After spending the night at Shipton’s you will use the Chogoria route, because we believe it is the most scenic. The trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col (where porters once swore they saw a lion, hence the name) then a quick descent to the Hall Tarns. From here you follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the beautiful Gorges Valley.
Loosing elevation, you leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt which surrounds Mt. Kenya. As you approach the rustic cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Lodge (your destination for the night), you are likely to see cape buffalo, as well as bush buck or water buck, and tracks of other wild animals.
The Bandas, as the cabins are called, are a welcome luxury after your stay on the mountain. With hot showers (after the water is wood-fire heated) and a fine evening fire, you enjoy dinner and the thick, fragrant air of the jungly lower elevations. In the evening, you can make a short hike with your guide, looking for additional wildlife and exploring the immediate area around our cabins.<br><br>
DAY 7:CHOGORIA BANDAS – NAIROBI
There is a rough road which leads up to the lodge. You may choose to hike the first hour or so, enjoying the thick bamboo forest. You often see elephant tracks and signs of many other wild animals. After a bit of time, a 4×4 off road vehicle catches up with you. You use the vehicle to drive to Chogoria town on the east side of Mt. Kenya. Once on the main road, you switch to a more comfortable vehicle, for an additional 4 hour drive to Nairobi. Back to a Nairobi hotel, you enjoy the comforts of civilization and a fine dinner or get transferred to the airport for a flight out.
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